Tubeless removes most punctures and adds a maintenance job you did not previously have.
Verdict
Tubeless is worth it if you ride gravel, ride in thorny country, or want lower pressures for comfort and grip, because sealant closes small punctures while you keep riding. Inner tubes are worth it if you want a system with no maintenance schedule, no mess and a roadside repair that always works. Tubeless trades frequent small annoyances for occasional larger ones.
The case for tubeless is genuine. Sealant seals the thorn and glass punctures that make up most flats, without you noticing, and removing the tube removes pinch flats, which lets you run lower pressures for real gains in comfort and grip on rough surfaces.
The case against is that you have signed up for a maintenance schedule. Sealant dries out and needs topping up every few months, initial setup can be a fight, and when a tubeless tyre does fail badly it fails messily, at the roadside, covered in latex. Carry a tube regardless.
~$23.09
Check Backcountry → Check Orange Seal Endurance sealant Price~$19.40
Check Backcountry → Check Continental Race 28 inner tubes Price| Orange Seal Endurance sealant | Continental Race 28 inner tubes | |
|---|---|---|
| Small punctures | Usually self seal | Stop and fix |
| Pinch flats | Effectively eliminated | Possible |
| Low pressure riding | Yes | Limited |
| Maintenance | Top up sealant every few months | None |
| Setup | Can be difficult | Simple |
| Roadside repair | Plug, or fit a tube | Fit a tube |
You ride gravel, trails, or roads with hedge cuttings and glass, or you want to run lower pressures than a tube allows. Sealant handles the punctures you would otherwise stop for, and the ride quality gain at lower pressure on rough surfaces is real rather than marginal. Budget for topping up sealant a few times a year and accept that setup day can be frustrating.
Check Backcountry → Check Orange Seal Endurance sealant on Amazon
You want a system with no schedule. Tubes are cheap, universally available, easy to fit, and a roadside repair is the same procedure it has been for a century. For smooth road riding at normal pressures the puncture rate difference is smaller than tubeless advocates suggest, and there is nothing to dry out.
Check Backcountry → Check Continental Race 28 inner tubes on Amazon
Tubeless does not remove the need for a spare tube. Sealant will not close a sidewall tear or a cut larger than a few millimetres, and when that happens the fix is to remove the valve core and fit a tube, in sealant, at the roadside. Carry a tube, levers and an inflator whatever you run. Check sealant levels every few months, since dried-out sealant gives you all the complexity of tubeless with none of the benefit.
It depends on where you ride. On rough roads, in thorny country, or if you want lower pressures for comfort, yes. On smooth roads at normal pressures the puncture rate difference is less dramatic, and the maintenance is a real cost. Gravel riding is where the case is strongest.
Typically every two to six months depending on the sealant, the climate and how much the bike is ridden, with hot dry conditions drying it faster. A tyre with no wet sealant in it is a tubeless tyre with all of the complexity and none of the protection.
Yes, and it is the standard roadside fix for a puncture too large to seal. Remove the valve core and the valve, pull out whatever plug you tried, and fit the tube. It is messy, since the tyre is full of sealant, so carrying a glove or a rag is worth it.
Marginally, and it varies. Removing the tube saves weight, and sealant and tubeless-specific tyres and rim tape add some back. Weight is not the reason to go tubeless; puncture resistance and the ability to run lower pressures are.
Comparison based on published manufacturer specifications and the general consensus of owner reports. We have not tested these units side by side. Confirm current prices and specifications before buying. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.