Road Bike Tire Pressure Chart (Tubed)
Recommended rear-tire PSI by rider weight and tire width for clincher (tubed) road tires on the road. Run the front tire about 5 PSI lower than the rear.
| Rider Weight | 23mm | 25mm | 28mm | 32mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 110 lb (50 kg) | 80 | 70 | 60 | 50 |
| 130 lb (59 kg) | 90 | 78 | 66 | 55 |
| 150 lb (68 kg) | 98 | 85 | 72 | 60 |
| 165 lb (75 kg) | 105 | 90 | 75 | 63 |
| 180 lb (82 kg) | 112 | 96 | 80 | 67 |
| 200 lb (91 kg) | 120 | 102 | 86 | 72 |
| 220 lb (100 kg) | 120+ | 110 | 92 | 78 |
Values are rear-tire PSI for tubed clinchers on paved roads. Stay within your tire and rim maximum pressure. Running tubeless? Subtract 5–10 PSI.
Gravel Bike Tire Pressure Chart
Gravel tires run much lower than road tires for grip and comfort on loose surfaces. Values below are tubeless rear-tire PSI; add a few PSI if running tubes. Gravel keeps pulling riders over from the road, and our look at the gravel bike in 2026 covers the trends and events behind that.
| Rider Weight | 35mm | 40mm | 45mm | 50mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 110 lb (50 kg) | 32 | 28 | 24 | 20 |
| 130 lb (59 kg) | 35 | 30 | 26 | 22 |
| 150 lb (68 kg) | 38 | 33 | 29 | 25 |
| 165 lb (75 kg) | 42 | 36 | 31 | 27 |
| 180 lb (82 kg) | 45 | 39 | 34 | 29 |
| 200 lb (91 kg) | 48 | 42 | 37 | 32 |
| 220 lb (100 kg) | 52 | 45 | 40 | 35 |
Tubeless rear-tire PSI on mixed gravel. Lower for chunky terrain and mud; raise for hardpack and pavement sections.
The gear these numbers assume
Every pace, zone and power figure on this page assumes something is measuring it. These are the three that cover running, cycling and the threshold work in between.
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Mountain Bike Tire Pressure Chart
MTB tires run the lowest pressures of all for traction over roots and rocks. Values are tubeless rear-tire PSI for 2.3–2.5″ trail tires; add 2–4 PSI for tubes.
| Rider Weight | XC (2.1–2.25″) | Trail (2.3–2.5″) | Enduro/Plus (2.6″+) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 110 lb (50 kg) | 22 | 18 | 15 |
| 130 lb (59 kg) | 24 | 20 | 16 |
| 150 lb (68 kg) | 26 | 22 | 18 |
| 165 lb (75 kg) | 28 | 24 | 20 |
| 180 lb (82 kg) | 30 | 26 | 21 |
| 200 lb (91 kg) | 33 | 28 | 23 |
| 220 lb (100 kg) | 35 | 30 | 25 |
Tubeless rear-tire PSI. Run the front 1–2 PSI lower than the rear for grip. Inserts allow even lower pressures.
How to Adjust From the Chart
Front vs. Rear
Run the front tire about 5–10% lower than the rear (roughly 3–5 PSI on the road, 1–2 PSI off-road). The rear carries more weight, the front needs more grip.
Tubeless vs. Tubed
Tubeless can run 5–15 PSI lower than tubed because there is no tube to pinch flat. Lower pressure means more grip and comfort.
Surface & Weather
Drop 5–10% for wet roads, rough chip-seal, or loose gravel to gain traction. Raise pressure for smooth pavement and racing.
Total System Weight
Use rider weight plus bike, kit, water, and bags. A loaded bikepacking rig needs higher pressure than a stripped race bike.
Never exceed the maximum pressure printed on your tire sidewall or your rim's rated limit, whichever is lower. Over-inflation reduces grip and risks blowing the tire off the rim, especially with hooked tubeless setups.
Why Tire Pressure Matters for Speed and Comfort
For decades riders pumped tires rock-hard, believing higher pressure equals less rolling resistance. Modern testing on real roads shows the opposite past a certain point: once you go too high, the tire stops absorbing bumps and the whole bike-and-rider system bounces, wasting energy. This is the "breakpoint pressure," and it is why correct pressure is faster, not just more comfortable. Position counts alongside pressure, so if you are weighing a dedicated race setup, see whether you need a tri bike or clip-on aero bars.
The Three Variables That Set Your Pressure
- Rider + system weight: the load the tire must support
- Tire width: wider casings hold more air volume, so they need less pressure
- Surface: rougher surfaces reward lower pressure for grip and reduced bounce
Start from the chart, then fine-tune by feel: if the ride feels harsh or you bounce on rough roads, drop a few PSI; if the tire feels squirmy in corners or you bottom out on rim, add a few. Pressure is only half of it, since the casing and tread you choose matter too, which our guide to cycling tire selection and pressure covers in full.
Dial In the Rest of Your Setup
Optimize your gearing for your terrain and cadence with our free Bike Gearing Calculator.
Open Bike Gearing CalculatorFrequently Asked Questions
What tire pressure should I run for a 28mm road tire?
For a 28mm road tire, a 165 lb (75 kg) rider should run roughly 70 to 75 PSI in the rear and 65 to 70 PSI in the front with tubes, or about 5 to 10 PSI lower if running tubeless. Lighter riders go lower and heavier riders go higher. Wider tires need less pressure, so a 28mm tire runs noticeably lower than a 23mm tire at the same rider weight.
Does rider weight affect tire pressure?
Yes, rider weight is the single biggest factor in correct tire pressure. Heavier riders need higher pressure to support the load and prevent pinch flats and rim strikes, while lighter riders should run lower pressure for better grip and comfort. A common starting point is to adjust about 1 to 2 PSI for every 5 to 10 lb of rider weight away from the chart's reference weight.
Should the front and rear tire have the same pressure?
No. Most of a rider's weight sits over the rear wheel, so the rear tire should be run about 5 to 10 percent higher than the front (roughly 3 to 5 PSI on the road). A slightly softer front tire improves cornering grip and comfort without increasing rolling resistance much, since the front carries less load.
Why do tubeless tires use lower pressure?
Tubeless setups can run 5 to 15 PSI lower than tubed tires because there is no inner tube to pinch flat against the rim. Lower pressure improves grip, comfort, and rolling resistance on real-world rough roads. The lower limit is set by tire burping, casing squirm, and rim strikes rather than pinch flats.